Cat Care
ORPHANED KITTENS...
Keep them warm: Newborn kittens are incapable of maintaining their own body heat for the first three weeks. Kittens quickly enter a downward spiral when they get cold. They become too weak to nurse, blood sugar drops and coma and death can quickly follow. Gently warm a kitten until it is alert and mewing for food. If the kitten is warmed but still dull or unwilling to nurse, this can indicate trouble. Seek veterinary care without delay. Keep them warm in a "nest" made from a high-sided box, crate or pet carrier lined with soft blankets. An electric heating pad is a convenient way to maintain the ideal ambient temperature but it should NEVER be placed directly in the nest. Place the heating pad UNDER the crate over half the carrier. Placing a chilled kitten against a warm water bottle or next to your skin works well in a pinch. During their first week, kittens should be kept between 88 and 92 degrees F. For the next 2 weeks they still need temperatures of 80 degrees or so. When they reach 5 weeks or so they can tolerate a lower room temperature
QUARANTINE: Kittens can carry infections and harbor parasites that can be dangerous or even deadly to other pets. Testing them for Feline Leukemia is very important as well as having a stool sample analyzed. Plan to quarantine the kittens for at least two weeks, even after they’ve been officially “vetted.”
Nutrition: Always use kitten formula such as KMR . Never feed cow’s milk to kittens--it can cause harmful or fatal digestive problems. Use a kitten nurser bottle. Eye droppers are not recommended as tiny kittens do not have a gag-reflex and could aspirate the milk into their lungs. Always feed in an upright position. NEVER FEED A COLD KITTEN! Formula should be warmed to body temperature and fed every 3-4 hours. As they get older every 6-8 hours will be enough. Check the package for recommended feeding amounts and feedings per day. A kitten needs approximately 8 cc's of formula per ounce of body weight per day. Make sure to weigh the kittens daily to ensure they are gaining weight.
| Age in Weeks | Average Weight of Kitten | Amount of Formula Per Day | Number of Feedings Per Day |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4 ounces | 32 cc | 6 |
| 2 | 7 ounces | 56 cc | 4 |
| 3 | 10 ounces | 80 cc | 3 |
| 4 | 13 ounces | 104 cc | 3 |
| 5 | 1 pound | 128 cc | 3 |
Stimulation for Elimation: Kittens 3 weeks and under are unable to pee and poop on their own. The mother cat normally helps things along by licking and cleaning under their tiny tails to make them void. If mom’s not around, it’s up to you. With a warm wet washcloth or cotton ball, firmly rub the kitten’s anus and genital area in a back-and-forth motion until the baby urinates and defecates. The stool should be formed, and the urine should be clear. If not, consult your veterinarian. Stimulate the kittens to go before and after each feeding to avoid urine or stool retention.
WEANING: By 3 to 4 weeks, kittens are ready to start eating solids. Begin by mixing pureed canned kitten food with kitten formula and offer it, slightly warmed, in a small flat dish. As they get the hang of it, you can begin increasing the proportion of canned food in the ration. Within a week or so the kittens should be able to eat straight canned food on their own. Royal Canin Baby Cat is one of the best foods for this stage. http://products.royalcanin.us/products/cat-food/babycat-34.aspx
LITTER BOX: With weaning under way, it’s time to introduce a litter pan. Offer a shallow box (a shoe box lid works perfectly) filled with regular unscented, non-clumping clay litter. After some preliminary scratching and digging, their instincts will kick in. By five weeks of age, most kittens are using the litter pan well and they can also leave the safety of their nest to start exploring their world. Socialization is critical at this stage, so be sure to handle them often and play with the kittens.
| Age | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Under 4 days | Eyes and ears are closed. The kitten curls in a comma shape. It is able to squeal with hunger and move toward warmth. Umbilical cord may still be attached. Weight: 3-4 oz. |
| 5-7 days | Ears open. Can orient to smells. Weighs 6-8 ounces. |
| 1-2 weeks | Eyes open. Getting ready to crawl. |
| 2-3 weeks | Takes first tentative steps. Baby teeth begin to erupt. Weighs 8-10 ounces. |
| 3-4 weeks | Walking, wobbly at first. Can orient to sights and sounds. Begins socializing with other kittens. Able to regulate body temperature on own. Weighs 10-12 ounces. |
| 4 weeks | Can eat solid foods, eliminate on own, beginning to use litter pan. Walking well. Learning to leap and pounce. Self-grooming begins. Eyes begin changing from blue to green and then yellow. Weighs 14 ounces and up. |
Caring for a feral cat colony has tremendous benefits to caregivers, neighbors, and the cats. Feeding and providing shelter for feral cats allows them to peacefully co-habitate in an area. While some people welcome them for rodent control, providing nutritious food keeps them both from roaming in search of another food source which also makes them less susceptible to disease and parasites. Though cats have been living outdoors for over 10,000 years on their own, there are steps that you as a caregiver can take to promote their well-being, make them good neighbors, and assist the people who live nearby in understanding and co-existing with the cats.
1. Neuter, vaccinate, eartip (LEFT), and return all feral cats in the colony. Neutering and vaccinating are the best things that can be done for stray and feral cats. They will be healthier and live longer if they are neutered. The females will not be continuously pregnant and nursing and, male cats will not fight for mates or roam in search of females with whom to mate.
2. Provide adequate food and water for the cats on a regular basis, year-round. The amount of food a cat needs depends on size, activity level, the weather, and what other food sources are available. Expect an adult feral cat to eat roughly 5.5 ounces of canned cat food and 2 ounces of dry food daily (increase to a half cup if only feeding dry). If the cats eat all of the food in 15 minutes or less, consider putting out a bit more. Remove uneaten food within 30 minutes. Never allow food to sit out, as it may attract insects or wildlife. Outdoor cats need clean water daily and during all weather conditions. Many cats will drink more water if their water source is moved away from their food. Throughout the winter months, you can add a pinch of sugar to prevent the water from freezing as quickly.
http://www.animalsheltering.org/resource_library/magazine_articles/sep_oct_2008/keeping_feral_cats_healthy.html.
Taming feral kittens
http://www.animalsheltering.org/resource_library/magazine_articles/nov_dec_2008/the_behavior_department_taming_feral_kittens.html.
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Shelter: Provide a small warm area, such as an igloo, in a sheltered place away from the wind. A good-sized shelter offers a space just big enough for three to five cats to huddle. Keeping your outdoor cats warm and dry will prevent hypothermia and frostbite (common on ears and tail tips). Ideally, the floor should be raised a few inches off the ground. Line the shelter with straw as straw resists the wet and keeps a shelter warm whereas blankets will hold moisture. The door should be no more than six to eight inches wide to keep out wildlife and bigger predators. Install a flap on the door to keep out snow, rain and wind. Alternatively, you may choose to allow cats to have access to your shed or garage during the winter. Visit www.alleycat.org for various options for feral cat shelters.
Note: warm vehicles can attract cats to jump up into the engine compartment to get closer to the heat. Therefore, always knock on the hood of the vehicle or blow the horn before starting your car or truck.
Extra Food: When the temperature is below freezing, you may need to increase calories by as much as 30%. An easy way to do this is to feed kitten food . Wet food in insulated containers is ideal for wintertime feeding, as it takes less energy for cats to digest than dry food-and cats can use that extra energy to keep warm. Supplementing their diet with essential fatty acids (canola, safflower and fish oils) will give the cats an extra energy source and cause the coat to grow in a bit thicker for the cold months. Keep the cats on a regular feeding schedule. The cats will come to expect the food and will spend less time in the cold before being consumed.
Fresh Water: Change water twice a day and fill with warm water. Using bowls that are deep rather than wide, and place them in a sunny spot. A pinch of sugar stops water from freezing as quickly, and provides an added energy boost. You can apply foam insulation to the hollow underside of a regular plastic feeding dish to delay the freezing of the water. Don't use metal bowls outside during the winter as a cat's tongue may accidentally stick to the bowl. Adding extra water to canned food is one way to help prevent dehydration. Purchasing heated electric water dishes will insure that your cats always have access to water. Visit www.cozywinters.com/pets for a lot of great products!
Antifreeze: It is estimated that nearly 100,000 pets each year are poisoned by antifreeze. Less than a teaspoon can kill a cat! Its sweet taste attracts pets, wildlife and children to ingest it. Ethylene glycol is an alcohol; hence during the initial phase the animals appear "drunk" and consequently exhibit many of the classical signs associated with alcohol intoxication: staggering, stumbling, and incoordination shortly after ingestion. Vomiting, nausea, extreme thirst, and frequent urination are also observed. During the second stage, your pet's liver and kidneys will work to metabolize the poison. During the metabolic process, his organs will turn the ethylene-glycol into an even more toxic substance. With this new toxin in his system, his vital organs will shut down and he will slip into a coma. The best way to prevent poisoning death is to switch to propylene-glycol antifreeze.
Ice Melt: Sidewalk ice melts like salt, magnesium, or calcium chloride can cause irritation to paws and are toxic when ingested causing stomach upsets, and if enough is ingested, nerve damage. Use a non-toxic ice melt like Safe Paws...For more information, visit www.safepaw.com
FELINE LEUKEMIA
The feline leukemia virus (FeLV) has been compared to the human AIDS virus because of its effect on the immune system. A contagious and often fatal disease, feline leukemia can cause multiple organ disease, cancer, bone marrow suppression, and a weakening of the immune system that makes it less likely that an affected cat will overcome infections. It is passed from cat to cat most commonly through grooming or a bite wound acquired while fighting. There is a vaccine available to prevent FeLV for cats at high risk for the disease.
Clinical Signs & Symptoms:
Frequently owners bring their cats to the veterinarian because the owner feels the cat is doing poorly or is "not himself; " the cat may have stopped eating or have developed a poor appetite. Cats that are infected with feline leukemia virus often will develop anemia, weight loss, decreased energy, diarrhea, dehydration, depression, respiratory infections, dental disease, abscesses, enlarged lymph nodes, and sometimes a fever. Secondary infections and multiple organ disease are complications associated with the virus.
Description:
Feline leukemia is an RNA virus or retrovirus, meaning that the virus duplicates itself by using the cat's own genetic replication equipment. Thus, the virus multiplies and can be found in the blood, saliva, tears and many other cells throughout the body, including the bone marrow. The virus leads to multiple problems including cancer such as lymphoma, leukemia (cancer in the blood stream), bone marrow suppression and immunosuppression (inability to fight off infections). It is especially dangerous when the virus affects the bone marrow, which is responsible for producing all the blood cell types-each of which plays a vital role in the animal's life. Red blood cells carry oxygen, white blood cells fight infection, and platelets help stop bleeding. If the bone marrow is suppressed, then the cells are not produced, leading to many potentially life-endangering complications. A common result of FeLV infection is immunosuppression, similar to the condition that affects humans who carry the HIV virus.
Of cats that are exposed to feline leukemia naturally, some will carry the virus and become sick and die within two to three years. Other cats that have a strong immune system are able to clear the infection within two months. The rest of the infected cats develop "latent" infections in which the virus remains in hiding for a period of time, after which it comes out of dormancy to cause disease and death. Cats that have tested positive to feline leukemia should be re-tested in two to three months to see if they are able to clear the virus from their system.
Diagnosis:
A thorough history and physical examination are vital to detect many of the conditions associated with a feline leukemia virus infection. A diagnosis of feline leukemia can be confirmed by several different kinds of tests. However, a quick blood test called an ELISA, performed by the veterinarian, can detect the presence of the virus.
Cats that test positive for feline leukemia (FeLV+) should have baseline blood work done to see if the virus is causing diseases of the organ systems. A chemistry panel will help detect diseases of organs such as the kidney and liver. Also, a complete blood count, or CBC, will determine the number of red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets. X-rays of the chest and abdomen often are taken to detect the presence of cancer.
Prognosis:
Cats that are infected with the feline leukemia virus can survive many years and have an excellent quality of life. However, once the virus begins to cause secondary diseases, the cat eventually will die due to complications from the disease. The most common causes of death due to feline leukemia include cancer, anemia, and bacterial and viral infections.
Transmission or Cause:
The most common way that cats become infected with the feline leukemia virus is through direct contact with the saliva or nasal secretions of an infected feline-which often occurs during a fight when a cat with the virus bites an unvaccinated animal. The virus cannot survive in the environment, so urine and feces are not significant sources of infection to other cats. In addition, routine disinfectants will eliminate the virus from cages and other surfaces. However, cats that groom each other and share food and water sources can transmit the virus because the saliva of an infected cat is contagious. The virus can also be passed from a mother cat to unborn kittens in the uterus. Mother cats also can transmit the disease while grooming or nursing the kittens. Feline Leukemia is NOT transmitted to humans.
Treatment:
There are no current medications that can eliminate the virus from the cat's body, nor is there a cure for feline leukemia. However, there are methods for improving and prolonging a diseased cat's life. Certain vitamin supplements and medications, such as alpha interferon, may improve a cat's clinical signs and prolong its survival by enhancing the immune system. Antiviral medications can also be beneficial, which help suppress viral replication. However, these treatments can be quite expensive. Cats that are sick usually need to remain in the hospital for several days in order to provide the necessary care for stabilization. Bacterial infections that develop as a result of the virus require treatment with antibiotics. If the cat is very anemic, a blood transfusion may be necessary to replace the red blood cells. Intravenous fluid therapy is often necessary in cats that have kidney disease or in cats that are dehydrated because they are not eating, have diarrhea, or are vomiting frequently.
Prevention:
The best way to prevent cats from developing feline leukemia is to keep them indoors and away from other cats that could be carrying the virus. If there is another cat in the house that has feline leukemia, do not allow the animals to share litter boxes, water or food bowls. The vaccine for feline leukemia virus is recommended for cats that do go outdoors or are at high risk for developing the virus for other reasons. Because the vaccine can, in rare instances, cause a type of tumor called a fibrosarcoma, it currently is recommended that only cats at risk be vaccinated. Cats that have feline leukemia must be kept indoors to prevent the spread of the virus to other cats. In addition, cats with the disease should avoid exposure to bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens present in the outside environment since their weakened immune system are less capable of fighting off organisms that cause illness and infection.
VISIT www.kittytest.com to find out WHERE FELV and FIV are in your area
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) OR FELINE AIDS
Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) is a fatal disease of cats that is of the same subfamily of retroviruses as the human HIV virus. The FIV virus is transmitted in the saliva or blood, commonly through the bite wound from an infected cat. Once inside the cat's body, the virus will invade the cells of the cat's immune system, preventing the cells from performing their vital role of fighting off infections and diseases. As a result, cats that contract FIV generally succumb to a wide variety of secondary diseases. This is strictly a cat disease and FIV cannot be transmitted to humans.
Clinical Signs & Symptoms:
Cats infected with FIV may have a fever, enlarged lymph nodes, loss of appetite, weight loss, depression, ulcers in the mouth, skin disorders or conjunctivitis. Some cats will show behavioral signs such as dementia, inappropriate elimination, hiding, and roaming. Neurological signs can include seizures or problems maintaining balance. Cats with FIV may also develop cancer.
Description:
Although it cannot be transmitted to humans, feline immunodeficiency virus often has been referred to as "feline AIDS" because of its similarity to the human immunodeficiency virus, or HIV. Both viruses impair the ability of the immune system to function normally, causing infections, cancer, and debilitation. When a cat becomes infected with FIV, the virus begins to replicate in the immune cells of the body, causing fever and swollen lymph nodes. After this, FIV goes into a latent or dormant state for several years, during which time the cat does not show signs of the disease. After two to ten years, the virus emerges from its dormant state and causes the clinical signs of terminal disease.
Diagnosis:
Following a thorough medical history and physical exam, an FIV test can be performed at most veterinary hospitals using a serology test called an ELISA assay. Using a few drops of blood, this test detects the presence of antibodies to the virus. A false positive is possible in kittens younger than 5 months, because FIV antibodies can be transmitted during nursing from an FIV positive mother and take time to leave the kitten's system. In addition, a vaccinated cat will also show a false positive on ELISA tests that are now available.
Cats that are sick or showing clinical signs of disease will need to have blood tests done to detect any abnormalities. The virus can affect organs such as the kidneys and liver, as well as the bone marrow. Involvement of the bone marrow can cause abnormal development of red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets.
Prognosis:
Once cats begin to show signs of serious disease due to repeated bacterial or viral infections, organ disease, or a failure to thrive, the life expectancy is one year or less. However, it may take cats anywhere from two to 10 years before reaching this stage of the disease. Each cat is different and one cannot predict how long a cat with FIV will live.
Transmission or Cause:
Feline immunodeficiency virus is transmitted through blood and saliva. Most often, it is spread when an infected cat bites another cat. Unneutered, outdoor, male cats that roam and fight with other cats are at greatest risk for developing FIV because they are more likely to defend their territory by fighting. Less common routes of infection include kittens nursing from an FIV positive mother or viral infection while in the uterus.
Treatment:
At this time, there is no known treatment that will eliminate the virus or treat it specifically. Medications and nutritional supplements that stimulate the immune system have been used in cats, which may improve the quality and duration of the cat's life. Because the virus can damage the immune system, treatment generally is directed at controlling any secondary bacterial infections through the use of antibiotics.
Prevention:
A vaccine has just been developed to aid in the prevention of FIV. However, the best prevention is to eliminate contact with the virus. General recommendations include keeping all cats indoors to deter them from fighting with potential carriers of FIV. New cats should be tested for FIV before being housed with other cats that do not have the virus. Kittens that are born to FIV infected mothers should not be allowed to nurse because the virus can be passed through the milk. FIV is not transmitted commonly by casual contact and is destroyed easily by disinfectants and routine cleaning.
- Avoid "rough play" with cats, especially kittens.
- Wash cat bites and scratches immediately with soap and water.
- Do not allow cats to lick open wounds that you may have.
- Control fleas by using Revolution www.revolution4cats.com (Fairchild applies a dose of Revolution to every cat which also prevents heartworm and treats intestinal worms and ear mites).
- If you develop an infection (with pus and pronounced swelling) where you were scratched or bitten by a cat or develop symptoms, including fever, headache, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue, contact your physician.